The Peasantry: Sophisticated Street Food in Lakeview

By Sarah Freeman

There are some times when we need a gyro, and there are other times when we need a gyro filled with baby octopus. Enter The Peasantry in Lakeview.

Alexander Brunacci quietly opened his second restaurant a week ago. We caught a preview of the elevated street-eats menu - in the form of a lamb burger with olive aïoli - during April’s Dose Market, but then heard nothing. Brunacci wanted an understated opening, so he let locals discover the Clark Street spot before the media. He used the same tactic with his first restaurant, Franks ‘n’ Dawgs.

The Peasantry occupies a cozy space where seating options are as varied as the variety of meats on the menu. Near the front window, smaller tables sits below graffiti-style art, and there's a bar lined with metal stools. Toward the back, you'll find a fireplace and a large wood communal table. Finally, around the corner, a small alcove decorated with the Chicago flag and illuminated by two cagelike light fixtures acts as a semi-private dining space.

Back to that octopus gyro - it's one of three on the menu made with roti parata, naan-style bread Brunacci became a fan of while traveling in Singapore. Other highlights include grilled frog legs with cognac BBQ sauce, honey- and sherry-marinated chicken livers on toast, pickled lamb tongue flatbread and rabbit pasta. Straight off the Franks ‘n’ Dawgs menu is the Tur-Doggin sausage.

We're going to close with our new favorite three words: triple truffle fries. Yes, that's waffle fries topped with truffle butter, truffle salt and truffle oil. Good luck eating a regular fry ever again.

2723 N. Clark St.; (773-868-4888)