The two-storey Beak Street venue is a handsome one with a modern meets rustic French bistro feel - there’s exposed brick, big iron window frames, cute collections of decanters, vintage wine posters, green leather upholstery and the like.
Downstairs is the bar and wine shop and space for 40 people to graze on the all-day menu. Upstairs is only open at lunch and dinner and there’s an impressive marble counter displaying an old-fashioned (and working meat slicer) that’s employed for churning out their impressive charcuterie selection.
As you might have guessed from the name, wine is king here. There’s an interesting and eclectic 300-strong list, with 25 wines available by the glass, and all wines are available for purchase from the wine shop below.
However, they’re actually no slouch on the food front either. Among the starters, grilled mackerel with rhubarb, chilli and lovage was an unusual but punchy flavour combo, while a chunky suckling kid terrine with green tomato chutney also impressed. A main of smoked haddock with asparagus, quails eggs and pea shoots felt terribly English and seasonal, and both fresh, and vaguely familiar (in a nod to kedgeree type fashion) at the same time.
Each dish comes with a suggested wine pairing, and the ones we tried were spot on - the English Sancerre-like tipple that was paired with the smoked haddock was a particular triumph. Sensible prices (we were four and had starters, mains, two cheeses and a pud to share, plus a glass of wine each with each course, and our bill came to just under £50 a head including service) plus the fact that you can actually book means they should do as well here as they have in Farringdon and Marylebone.
53-55 Beak St., W1F 9SH; 020 3544 7411
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