Gwynnett Street? It doesn't seem like a Brooklyn restaurant. In his loving two-star review of the place, the Times critic takes some of the areas other eateries to task for their pretension and their faux rustic decors. Check it out:
"Mr. Hilbert’s style of cuisine is not yet common in this pocket of Williamsburg. In fact, cooking this sophisticated would be a find anywhere in New York. And while it is a restaurant in Brooklyn, Gwynnett St. is not really a Brooklyn restaurant. There are no butchers’ tools hanging from reclaimed barn doors. Under the eye of Carl McCoy, the proprietor, the dining room staff is calmly professional, utterly free of pretense and attitude."
He sings the praises of the simple yet surprising fare, the no-frills decor and the pastries, which were also prepared by chef Justin Hilbert. Check out the full review here - Williamsburg sure is looking like the city's hottest culinary nabe these days.