This week, NY Times restaurant critic Pete Wells stopped by Alex Stupak's Empellon Cocina and came away mucho impressed by the chef's high-end take on Mexican fare (we also stopped by right after they opened - check out our video here). While Wells notes some missteps, he basically says that eating in this restaurant is like a dream: "At its best, Mr. Stupak’s cooking at Empellón Cocina resembles the food of Mexico the way a dream resembles life. Everything looks familiar, except that the light seems to be coming from a different direction, and did that river always run right through the bedroom?"
Wells also notes how the chef manages to achieve these goals without too much experience cooking Mexican fare (Stupak used to be a pastry chef) and without resorting to an overwhelming amount of Modernist bells and whistles. Sounds impressive! You can check out the full review here.
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