4/19/2012 06:50:00 PM

The Best Thing We Ate Last Night in Chicago: Jidori Chicken at Tru

Tru likes their chicken to feel at home, so it's served on a log
Certain meals require more than a reservation and a healthy appetite. Certain meals require hours, perhaps even days, of mental preparation. If a team of chefs is going to spend as much time perfecting a delicate dance around the kitchen to prepare our multicourse meal, then we want all of our faculties in tip-top shape to enjoy it.

Last night we ate at Tru.
We can wax poetic about the wines elegantly matched with each of the six-courses in Chef Anthony Martin’s grand collection. However, one dish dazzled brighter than the rest. When the team of servers laid a napkin across the table, our first thought was, “We know this place is swanky, but a napkin for our laps and the table seems a bit excessive.” Then they brought out the logs, and everything made sense. The five courses of sturgeon mock caviar, butternut squash soup, pork belly with black truffle and roasted stripped bass led up to this moment. The moment when half a tree trunk was presented to our table as the plate and topped with jidori chicken, with sides of honshimeji mushroom and foie gras.

There is something to be said about well-executed chicken - it's like the dinner version of the omelet test. Many boast about a perfectly cooked chicken, but few can deliver. Tru delivers on every level; from the preparation to the light demi-glaze and accompaniments. The earthy flavors of the mushroom and subtle taste of the chicken are accentuated by rosemary. If this is what is possible when the chef tackles chicken, we can only imagine what other stunning yet satisfying dishes he has up his sleeve.

676 N. St. Clair Street; 312-202-0001 


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  2. We know this place is swanky, but a napkin for our laps and the table seems a bit excessive.
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