Reddi Chick, who obsess over the Armenian chicken at Zankou and who gush about the plates at Roscoe's Chicken & Waffles. And then, there's the chicken at Batch, a small-plate gastropub on the east side of Culver City. It's called CYO Mary's Chicken ($21) - with CYO standing for "Cook Your Own." Chef Salvador Roldan will make it any way you want within reason. We chose roasted - simple and to the point. And the result was a wonder, a perfectly crispy skin over a bird that oozed juices. Batch uses Mary's free-range chickens, the gold standard on the West Coast. The chicken comes atop buttery mashers and a cole slaw heavy with fennel. And it tastes great the next day.