Newly installed NY Times dining critic Pete Wells has bestowed two stars on retro lunch counter Parm, a joint opened by the chefs behind Torrisi Italian Specialties that serves up red-sauce staples like baked ziti and the namesake chicken parm. In the review itself, Mr. Wells spends most of the write-up justifying his two-star rating, concluding with: "Would a few candles stuck into straw-covered Chianti flasks be pushing the joke too far? Maybe, but Mr. Carbone and Mr. Torrisi aren’t afraid to embrace a good cliché. Recall those chefs and food writers telling us that pasta is its own course, not a side dish, when you’re enjoying a springy cube of baked ziti with your chicken francese at Parm. Who cares what they do in Bologna? This is Mulberry Street."